Laminate Flooring Buying Guide

Laminate flooring has recently become very advanced and popular and finding the right laminate is a big decision. Our Buying Guide can help you learn everything you need to know about this product.

Before giving you more details,  here’s a video with 5 vital areas to consider when you’re looking for the right laminate flooring product.

Now, with that in mind, we present you some other questions to consider, when you’re buying a laminate floor.

What to Ask When You Don’t Know What to Ask

Where: You first have to think about where your laminate floor will be installed. Get to know the AC (Abrasion Class) ratings for laminates so you will be able to pick the right one.

What: Having so many laminates to choose from the display, you will be able to get the exact color, style and design you’re looking for.

Why: Easy to clean, hypoallergenic and excellent for homes with pets or kids.  Furthermore, laminate prices are always less than hardwood (as well as many other flooring types).

When: Installing a floor doesn’t happen overnight so you need to make sure you organize your time for delivery, acclimatization and installation.

Who: Do you want to try a DIY project or hire an installer? The great news is that laminates and their easy locking systems are ideal for beginner DIY jobs.

How Laminate is Made

There are two types of laminates: one known as Direct Pressure Laminate (DPL) and the other one known as High Pressure Laminate (HPL). When talking about the HPL process, the backing and top wear layers are separately treated and fused directly onto the core. This will create a floor suitable for very heavy traffic because the process puts together a very solid floor .

HPL laminates consist of the same four layers as in Direct Pressure Laminate, with the fifth layer being a special high-strength paper. HPL flooring is more expensive than DPL flooring. Many residential applications won’t require HPL.

Accessories

More than just the planks of laminate are needed  for the floor to be complete. Underlayment, moldings, transition pieces, trim, even adhesives will need to be part of your installation. You firstly need to make sure your vendor has all these pieces ready.

In order to finish your floor, you’ll need the right moldings and trim. Make sure your dealer has products that are an exact match for the laminate you are using.

Molding	Usage	Image
Base shoe molding	A round combination of the baseboard and quarter; a flat profile, with a rounded lip at the bottom of the molding. This molding is used when shallower profiles are required (for example: behind bookshelves).
End molding	Transition molding used when there are great level differences between two rooms. This can also be used when you are interested into finding a transition between a laminate floor and a sliding glass door.
Reducer molding	Transition molding located on a floor between two rooms with slight level differences (for example: between laminate and tile).
T molding	“T” shaped transition molding used between two rooms of the same level.
Stair Nose molding	Molding used when making a transition between a laminate floor and stairs. The molding hooks over the edge of the first stair, with one edge on the vertical face of the stair and the other edge on the surface of the flooring.
Quarter round molding	Molding used in the same way as a base shoe molding, behind cabinets where a low profile molding is better suited to support an object flush against the wall.
Baseboards	Molding with a flat vertical surface or “profile”, used in the same way as a quarter round; transition between floor and wall.

Underlayment

Underlayment is a thin foam padding which is responsible for absorbing sound. It is also reliable for fixing very minor imperfections in the sub-floor. A separate moisture barrier or an underlayment with a moisture barrier is needed if the floor will be on or below grade, or in an area subject to moisture. You can buy underlayment and lay it down before you install your laminate. Also, you can make the installation even quicker and easier by buying a laminate with a pre-attached underlay.

There are basically 3 underlayment options:

• Padding only (provides cushioning)
• Padding and Moisture barrier
• Padding, Moisture barrier and sound barrier

You may need to install a moisture barrier before installing a laminate with a pre-attached underlay.

Adhesives

Most laminate floors do not require adhesive. You could also come across laminates requiring the use of glue or adhesive.

All the Basics

AC Rating

Get to know the Abrasion Class (AC) ratings for laminate floors. An impartial 3rd party has set the standard for 5 different divisions of use and durability. The higher the AC Rating, the higher the price. Be careful when choosing and don’t overpay or underpay.

AC1 Moderate Residential is built to withstand only light residential use and it is suitable for closets or bedrooms.

AC2 General Residential is built for moderate foot traffic and it is suitable in residential spaces that are not overused.

AC3 Heavy Residential/Moderate Commercial is built for all kinds of residential uses including high–traffic rooms and even commercial spaces that have light traffic like hotel rooms and offices without off-street traffic.

AC4 General Commercial is built to withstand every kind of residential use as well as heavily trafficked commercial spaces that have off-street traffic like cafes, boutiques and offices.

AC5 Heavy Commercial is built for the busiest commercial uses and high–traffic spaces like department stores and government buildings.

How Will Your Floor Wear Over Time?

It is known that a certain wood species can yellow or redden with age and even develop a patina as they collect surface scratches and dents? We have great news for you: laminates don’t react to age and wear in the same way. But will it always look exactly the same as the day you installed it? It truly depends on the quality you pick and how and where your floor is used.

Moisture and Temperature

Laminate flooring is a perfect pick for any indoor space. Laminate cores react less to extremes in humidity than solid wood does so this means that laminate is not an acceptable choice for spaces where high levels of moisture or humidity are continuously present. Bathrooms, laundry rooms, indoor/outdoor spaces or anywhere else water or encounters with wet objects are likely to occur should not present laminate flooring.

Sunlight

Laminate floors tends not to react to sunlight and aging. For example, cherry hardwood will change drastically over the years whereas cherry laminate will stay the same as the day you bought it. Also, the better the warranty on your laminate, the better it will resist fade and discoloration.

Wear and Tear

Feet, wheels, high heels, damp, paws, chairs, couches, tables, spills and every other form of wear and tear exposure a laminate floor can eventually show with time. If you want your floor to look immaculate even after years and decades of use, you need to buy the highest AC rating floor you can afford. The AC rating can help you find the laminate that’s tough enough to resist to every kind of wear and tear for your area.

Where to Install Laminate

Laminates can go almost everywhere. Here’s a list of places and what can happen, room by room.

Living & Dining Rooms are perfect places for laminates. You need to use furniture protector pads under your chairs and couches to keep from messing up the laminate surface. Remember to make sure you buy a laminate with a tough enough AC rating for the way you want to use your floor.

Foyers & Entrances. Laminates should never be installed in places where there will be high or continuous exposure to moisture. You can install laminates in foyers and entrances in rainy or snowy climates but be sure to keep the wet and especially the salty-wet moisture off the floor by laying down a mat or shoe carpet over the laminate.

Offices & Dens are wonderful choice for laminates. You should take into consideration placing a special plastic mat down under the wheels of your office chair to avoid “overuse” spots. Furthermore, you could pick a laminate with a tough enough AC rating in order to take years of office chair abuse.

Kitchens & Bathrooms. There’s every reason to want laminate to continue into an open plan kitchen since this kind of flooring looks stunning all through the house. You first need to be aware that pools of standing water will cause problems to your laminate floor. Clean up spills rapidly and damp mop rather than wet mop your floor. The general moisture and humidity make bathrooms a not agreeable choice for laminates. Nowadays, suitable materials have been made to resemble wood like vinyl and porcelain tile.

Who Loves Laminates?

People with allergies. Unlike carpets that store years of dust, pollen, animal hair and dander, laminate floors form a tight seal that cannot be penetrated. All you need to do is vacuum regularly.

People who like easy clean up and maintenance. To keep them looking their best, some woods require polishing and waxing. It is not the same with laminates. All you need for cleaning is a broom or a vacuum plus one of the new damp mop products readily available in supermarkets.

People with children. Laminates form a barrier against embedded dirt. An ideal floor for children can easily be creating by regular vacuuming and damp mopping.

People with pets. Accidents produced by pets can permanently damage a wood floor.Claws can easily scratch a wood floor’s surface. Not so with laminate floors. You just need to clean up the accidents rapidly. Before shopping, look for a laminate with a higher AC rating so your pets can bum around freely.

Laminate Cleaning and Maintenance

Simple steps need to be followed in order to keep your laminate flooring clean and to ensure that it looks excellent for many years after the installation.

• Dust mop or vacuum with a delicate brush or wood floor accessory to keep your laminate floor bright from dust, dirt or grit.
• A damp cloth or mop can be used but without adding extra water. The floor can by dried thoroughly with a clear, smooth cloth.
• Clean, dry cloth, sponge, or paper towel should be immediately used in case of blot up spills or water from wet feet or footwear. Do not allow excess liquid to remain on the surface.
• Do not use soap-based detergents, abrasive cleaners, or combined “clean and shine” products on your laminate floor.
• Do not use steel wool or scouring pads that may scratch laminate panels.
• Do not wax or polish your laminate flooring.
• Do not steam clean or use chemicals that may damage the surface.
• Only on stubborn substances such as tar, asphalt or paint, acetone or nail polish remover sparingly can be used. Don’t forget to immediately wipe clean with a damp cloth.

Laminate Types

In the 80s, Pergo was the first laminate wood floor. The innovations in laminates keep on going. From locking systems, to evermore-authentic looks, you’ll want to know everything you can.

Locking Types

• Glueless-Click. Over two-thirds of today’s laminates fall under this easy-to-install, glueless click-lock category.
• Pre-Attached Underlay (or none). We recommend you to install laminates over an underlayment (a thin foam padding that absorbs sound). If your floor will be on or below grade or in an area subject to moisture you’ll need underlayment with a moisture or vapor barrier. You can purchase underlayment by the roll and lay it down before you install your laminate or you can make the installation even quicker and easier by buying a laminate with a pre-attached underlay. This type still requires a separate moisture barrier underlay to be laid down first.
• Glued Laminate. This makes for a very strong floor, even the installation cost and time is higher than with a glueless-click. This laminate needs you to glue the joints together.
• Pre-Glued. This kind of laminate presents the joints with glue already applied to them. It may need to be moistened in order to activate the glue before you join them together.

Surface Types

Laminate floors are always evolving and you might want to pick your floor based on what the surface will look like. Now there are many surfaces to choose from.

• Smooth. Associate with hardwood, this is a plain finish just like a layer of varnish. You can pick between high, medium and low gloss finishes.
• Embossed and/or Textured. Laminates can come with a textured finish. Regular embossing isn’t an exact match of the grooves of the printed grain but does fool the eye into seeing a surface grain.
• Distressed/Hand scraped. Now there are available hand scraped laminate floors which adds an antiqued look to your laminate floor. This is a process that up until recently was reserved only for engineered or solid hardwoods.
• Embossed in Registration. For the most authentic embossed look, this type of embossing matches the grain of the wood exactly.
• Keep an eye out for new laminate innovations.

Looks

The lamination process generally means fusing a photo decorative layer onto several other stabilizing layers. In conclusion, a laminate floor can look like just about anything you wish for. Laminates can resemble stone, tile or wood. Within these three categories, you can find color, texture, and tone in almost limitless varieties.

Wood Laminate

If there’s a type of wood species that’s been sold in planks for hardwood flooring, chances are there’s a laminate adaptation of it.

Tile Laminate

Tile laminates create a floor that’s similar to a tiled floor with the advantages and disadvantages of laminate.

Stone Laminate

Less common than wood, stone laminates look exactly like stone tile and can help you create the look of stone for a whole lot less money.

Installing Your Laminate Floor

Preparing For a Laminate Flooring Installation

There are three important issues to think about before the day of laminate installation: Furniture, appliances and fixed objects.

Furniture: All of it needs to be removed. Make sure to empty the closets and cabinets. If your installer is prepared to move the furniture for you, check in advance if you are going to be charged for it.

Appliances: Appliances need to be disconnected and removed from the space. Some installers may do the job for you for an additional charge. You can do it yourself with a little help. Prior arrangements should be made with your gas/appliances company to disconnect and reconnect all gas appliances. It is NOT recommended disconnecting gas related appliances on your own.

Fixed Objects: For example, posts and fireplace surrounds need to be included into your plan when preparing for the installation. A great way to start preparing is measuring the dimensions of these objects and how they may affect your square footage requirement. This process should be done before your installer arrives! Properly preparation for laminate flooring installation can result in a stress-free experience.

Pre-installation instructions

A do-it-yourself laminate floor installation requires construction skills of an intermediate-level. You should consider a few factors before a laminate floor installation. Here are a few instructions:

• Make sure that the subfloor is horizontal, dry, and polished.
• We recommend you using an underlayment for soundproofing and stability.
• Laminate flooring and underlayment/vapor barrier can be installed on any existing floor as long as the floor is flat and sturdy. Minor irregularities won’t be visible thanks to the foam pads.
• Remember to allow the flooring material to acclimatize to the installation site for as long as possible (min. 2 to 3 days) in order for the flooring to adjust to the room temperature and humidity.
• Each floor plank should be examined for color, finish, quality and defects.
• 65°F (15°C) is the perfect temperature for a laminate floor installation. Our recommendation is that a floor surface temperature of 59°F and an overall room temperature of 65°F must be ensured before, during and three days after the installation.
• Remember to take extra care when installing laminate flooring over radiant heating. Ensure that you read both the laminate flooring and radiant heat system instructions.
• Always read the installation instructions provided by your laminate flooring provider / manufacturer.

Installation tips

• The beginning wall of the flooring, the wall where you start installing the new floor, should be more visible than your ending wall.
• Remember to remove any previous carpeting or wood flooring glued to a concrete floor.
• Wood flooring NOT glued to a concrete floor can remain.
• After measuring the area of the floor to be covered with the laminate, add 10% to allow as wastage.
• If your room is larger than 1,000 square feet, you must use spacers of 0.75 inch in order to create expansion space around the border of the room and any pipes, doorframes, cabinets, or fixed objects.
• A gap of 0.50 inches can work, if your room is smaller. These gaps allow for expansion and contraction.
• To install flooring around pipes, drill a hole in the plank that is half or a quarter inch larger than the pipe diameter. The plank needs to be cut across the center of the circle, fit around the pipe on the floor, glue plank pieces back together and clamp. Cover expansion gaps with molding or pipe rings when the floor is complete. Water pipes require silicone sealant.
• Raise the last installed board approximately 1 to 2 inches until it disengages in order to replace any planks damaged during installation. Just continue until you reach the affected plank, replace and reinstall the planks.

Underlayment installation

Underlayment is known for being a material placed between the sub-floor and your laminate floor. This provides cushioning, sound absorption and a barrier to moisture. Underlayment comes in large rolls or as separate pieces that can be taped together. The use of an underlayment reduces walking noise, improves flooring stability and provides superior support and also speeds installation.

• Firstly remove the shoe molding from around the baseboard and also the doors to be covered.
• Additional space should be added in order to fit under doorframes. This process should be started by placing a piece of underlayment and laminate flooring next to the jamb to determine the required height. Now, cut out the desired area of the frame.
• Make sure the edges don’t overlap. Tape the pieces together to prevent them from shifting. Using spacers by creating an expansion gap between the underlayment and walls.
• Apply a polyethylene plastic vapor barrier before installing the underlayment, if you’re placing a laminate floor on top of a concrete slab.

Floating or glueless installation method

One of the key advantages of laminate flooring is the ease of installation. There are two do-it-yourself installment options. One of them is the floating or glueless method where the flooring is not secured to the subfloor. It allows each board to be connected by means of a tongue-and-groove design. These planks click together to form a firmly fastened surface, around eight inches by four feet long.

The glueless flooring planks are installed on an average 50% faster than the traditional methods of installation.

Materials requirement:

• Straight edge
• Measuring tape
• Pencil
• Marker
• Speed square (to test angles)
• Scissors
• Hammer
• Coping saw
• Circular saw with fine-tooth blade
• Safety goggles
• Clamps
• Wall spacer wedges
• Tapping block
• Last row puller (prybar)
• Laminate flooring
• Underlay (foam, vinyl or cork are popular choices)

Installation procedure

• Flooring planks should be in preference installed with their length parallel to the incoming sunlight.
• The installation should start from the left corner of the room. Furthermore, cut off the tongue of the planks, and run them parallel to the wall using expansion spacers.
• Install each plank by inserting one end into the other.
• Measure and trim the last plank to fit, on reaching the end of the row.
• Start the next row by cutting a new plank similar to the pattern of the first row
• Slightly lift the previous row in order to fit the next planks into position.
• Give a sharp rap to the next line of boards using your hand to fully engage. Press them down strongly.
• Keep on going with this process until the rest of the flooring is done.
• The last row should have the same width as the first row. Remember to trace the wall outline and to leave space for expansion.
• Trim and remove surplus plastic sheeting and spacers.
• Reinstall baseboards without nailing to the floor.
• Flooring should spread under the doorframe.
• To mark the depth that the doorframe should be trimmed, use a piece of scrap flooring.

Laminate Flooring Installation Costs

After you picked a laminate floor, remember to calculate the total cost of your installation. The first step is calculating how much square footage you’ll need, consider the AC rating that will best suit your flooring location. Add to your calculation, the cost of underlay and laminate flooring moldings. Make sure that there are no surprises regarding your project budget in order to succeed a perfect laminate flooring installation.

Apart from material costs, here is a list of additional expenditures you may have to factor in during or prior of a laminate flooring installation project:

• Furniture removal and replacement: Some professional installers include taking your furniture out of the room and also moving it back there once the installation has been finished. Remember that additional charges may exist.
• Taking off the old floor covering: Your previous/old floor covering may need to be removed and the debris has to be disposed properly as well. Your installer may regard it as a cost-incurring step, if you don’t do it yourself.
• Subfloor preparation: Pre-installation work may incur additional charges if your subfloor needs to be repaired or treated.
• Installation: Determine the total cost for installation process.
• Accessories installation: Find out if the installation procedure requires accessories/additional material/tools to install laminate properly. This step may or may not be included in the installation agreement.

This may not be a complete list of things to look into before finalizing your decision about laminate flooring so we would like to to consider a discussion with your flooring installer or dealer. This way you will get all your facts straight before starting this project. The key to a happy and successful process is doing your research and getting all of the costs of a laminate flooring installation upfront.

Where to Buy Your Laminate Floor

You want to make sure you not only get great advice but that you get good service all the way through your purchase and installation process. The best way to do that is to ask tough questions in advance.

• Is there a laminate expert who can answer my questions?
• Will that be the same person I deal with all the way through this project?
• Can you measure my space and provide me with an estimate?
• If you don’t have personnel to measure my space, can you advise me on how to do it on my own?
• Do you provide installers?
• If the answer is no, can you help me find one?
• If you provide installers, can you guarantee for their work?
• Is the laminate I picked available or do you have to order it?
• How long is the wait in case I have to order it?
• Can you guarantee the time of delivery?
• Is your price guaranteed to be the lowest and if I find the same product somewhere else will you refund me the difference?
• Do you have a money-back satisfaction guarantee and what does it cover?
• Can you put me in touch with previous customers who have bought from you or used your installation services in the past?
• Do you have any product or company reviews online?
• Do you deliver and how much does it cost?
• Does your delivery charge include international shipping, if applicable?
• If not, how much will that cost?
• What is the warranty on my laminate?
• What if there’s a problem with my product that falls under warranty?
• How do you rectify that problem?
• What happens if I don’t like the product after I buy it but before I install it?
• Will you take it back and if so, what will you charge?
• What if I discover damages upon delivery?
• How do you make it right?
• Who can I call if I have a problem?
• Will it be the same person who sold me the laminate in the first place?
• Do you have the accessories I need to finish the job?
• For accessories like trim and moldings, can I see them first so I can determine if they are a good match to the floors?
• Do you have samples I can take home with me?
• How long can I keep them and at what cost?