Hardwood Moldings, Trims & Accessories
Hardwood floors mean more than selecting a wood, grabbing some boards, and installing them in the room. Customers must also take time to consider the various moldings or trims and accessories they might need in order to finish the look they are going for. Without moldings, trims and transition pieces, a hardwood floor job can look unfinished.
When installing a prefinished floor, most of them come with their own matching trim pieces in order to complete the job. An unfinished hardwood requires separate staining of unfinished molding and trim pieces for matching the finished floor.
You must also consider whether or not you’ll be using underlay if installing an engineered wood floor.
You may also need to consider what adhesive to use if going with either a glue-down installation or a floating glue-seam installation.
Moldings, Trim & Transitions
There are distinct moldings and trim choices designed to fit any flooring needed. When installing hardwood floors, the following moldings may be required in order to complete the job:
- T-Molding: is generally seen as a transition between a tiled floor and a wood floor, though it is also used to connect one wood floor to another.
- Reducer/One-Sided Reducer/Flush Reducer: is typically used to level the flooring when connected to a floor with a lower height; this is also being used as a design element around fireplaces.
- Overlap Reducer: is used with floating floors, transitions to carpet, and with floors of a lower height.
- Bi-level Reducer: is used with solid hardwood floors to transition to carpet or other floors of a lower height.
- Baby Threshold/Threshold: is used in areas where expansion is required, such as with sliding glass doors, but can also be used with carpet.
- End Cap/Square Nose: can be used in addition to a baby threshold molding.
- Overlap Stair Nosing, Bull Nose: is typically used with floating steps where expansion may be required.
- Flush/Square Edge Stair Nosing, Bull Nose: is used as a transition for stairs.
- Quarter Round: is generally used around baseboards and fixed objects throughout a room.
- Shoe Edge Molding: work just as quarter round molding.
- Baseboard/Wall Base: is used around the base of all walls in the room to cover the expansion gap space the flooring needs to breathe.
Underlayment
Underlayment is used as a barrier between the hardwood flooring and the subfloor. Furthermore, it is primarily used with engineered wood floors. Solid hardwood floors generally only use rosin/felt paper as an underlayment.
Underlayment has the purpose of providing cushion between the floor and the subfloor, muffle sound (important for above ground installations) and/or block moisture from getting to the hardwood floor.
- Basic Foam: is available in a few different types, based on the manufacturer. This is a layer of foam with the purpose of being used with concrete floors with at or below grade level installations. Keep in mind that, it may come with a plastic layer as a moisture barrier or with an additional layer of sticky material.
- Sound Choice: is an eco-friendly underlayment choice that implements insulation to the flooring. It has the purpose of reducing the noise associated with walking on wood floors. Another great this is that is also working to keep the floors cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. Furthermore, it has a vapor barrier to keep water from reaching the flooring.
- Floor Muffler: will reduce the amount of noise generated by walking on the floors, but is not an eco-friendly product since it is completely made of synthetic materials.
- Cork: is an excellent choice for those who are looking for a green underlayment choice. It will work wonders to reduce the sounds from walking while also protecting the floor from moisture. It can be used for floating installations just laid over the subfloor.
- Proflex: is an alternative to cork, but it is basically used with high rise buildings and it is suggested that builders get approval with the appropriate homeowners association before using it. This choice both reduces moisture risk and sound from walking. It is pressed down with a peel off tape rather than glued down.
- Plastic Sheathing: can be used on underneath whatever underlayment choice to add moisture protection. This option provides only sound proofing.
- Vinyl: is a perfect choice for moisture protection, but not so much for sound proofing.
- Rosin/Felt Paper: does not provide a moisture barrier, or much sound proofing. This material was laid down when solid hardwood floors were being installed, to prevent drywall dust and other particles from getting to the installer’s eyes.
Adhesives
Solid hardwood floors that are ¾” thick must be nailed down to the subfloor. Thin profile solids and many engineered hardwood floors may need to be glued down. Glue-seam floating engineered floors require adhesive to bond the tongue and groove edges together.
- Urethane Adhesives: are the generally used for engineered and thin profile hardwood floor installations. There are a few different choices out there, but they are not too environmentally friendly. It is important to ensure no adhesive is left anywhere on the wood after the installation and again in the proper day light. You can clean it up by using mineral spirits.
- Water Based Adhesives: are only to be used with engineered wood floors and are the best choice for those who are concerned with environmental and health issues. The truth is they do not always provide the best quality adhesion. Powder based adhesives are also applicable to blend with water. A damp cloth can be used to clean the adhesive.
- Floating Floor Glues: Each type of glue will have its own guidelines and recommendations for installation. These can be cleaned up with a damp cloth before the glue sets. Remember to be careful when it comes to scraping the glue off other surfaces.
Follow the manufacturer’s directions when choosing the right adhesive.
Important Note: Ensure proper ventilation and perform away from any heat or flame sources when using mineral spirits to clean up the adhesive.